COCHIN

Kerala's major port, Cochin is a city of history and colour. Founded in 1341, it was one of the key stops on the ancient spice route from China to Rome. Straddling both the Arabian Sea and the famous backwaters, its islands and promontories offer a fascinating spectacle. The Portuguese, Dutch and British have all left their mark on local architecture and culture, while influxes of Jewish and Arab settlers have added another intriguing dimension. Here you can see India's first European church - and a 16th century synagogue! A major Kerala gateway, Cochin makes an ideal starting point or finale for your tour: from here you can travel easily into the hills, travel the backwaters or head north to Calicut. The handsome Taj Malabar Hotel on Willingdon Island - between the modern Ernakulum District and historic Fort Cochin/Mattancherry, and with superb harbour views - combines colonial elegance and modern comfort and makes the perfect base from which to explore the city, and also features a Spa with Ayurvedic treatments. Other recommended hotels are the Malabar House Residency, Trident, Bolgatty Palace, Casino, Le Meridien, The Brunton Boatyard and Taj Residency.

ALLEPPEY

Some 50 miles south from Cochin, little Alleppey is another water-borne centre of busy canals, whose livelihood is linked to the production of coir rope, coconut matting and Kerala's famous black pepper ('black gold'). It's also a stepping stone for an eight-journey from nearby Kottayam (25 miles) to Quilon along rural Kerala's peaceful inland backwaters (known as kayals) that snake through canals often shaded by coconut palms. Stay at the first-class Marari Beach Resort, the Punnameda Backwater Resort or Kayaloram Lake Resort - or charming Mankotta Island Resort at nearby Haripad.

KUMARAKOM

Just a few miles from Kottayam, this sleepy town on the banks of Lake Vembanad lies deep in the backwaters of Kerala, tucked away amid mangrove forests and coconut groves. It can be reached in just 90 minutes by speedboat from Cochin, and makes an ideal stopping-point in its own right or en route to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary in the hills. It's the picturesque setting of the Taj Garden Retreat, once a planter's bungalow and now a charming first-class hotel with main house, cottage and houseboat accommodation - as well as an outstanding Ayurvedic Centre. An equally atmospheric setting is offered by the lagoon-edge cottages of the delightful Coconut Lagoon. Also not far from Kumarakom is the Kayaloram Lake Resort, with traditional Kerala-style cottage set beside the lake.

QUILON

At the southern end of the famous backwaters, and less than 50 miles north of Kovalam this ancient seaport and market town lies between the sea and palm-lined Ashtamudi Lake. It once traded in turn with the Phoenicians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs and Chinese and is today Kerala's largest producer of cashews and a good spot to buy spices and coir products.

EXPLORING THE BACKWATERS BY HOUSEBOAT

The most memorable way to experience the true magic of the waterways and lagoons of the backwaters is to sail at your own pace - through jungles of palm and fruit trees, past green paddy fields and waterside villages - by a beautifully crafted traditional old rice barge or kettuvallam. Many of these have been converted to provide comfortable houseboat accommodation. Each has one or two bedroom, bathroom, sitting room and sun-deck, with a crew to look after you and serve delicious local Keratin fare during a leisurely one or two-night cruise.